Editorial: Heavenly Bodies
I’m a German-Polish dancer and photographer, currently also working on filmmaking based in London. Coming into ballroom culture 5 years ago, I met Abdul, the fashion/costume designer behind Atelier Abdul. Atelier Abdul is a bespoke fashion/costume design label by Abdul Hamid who has been designing and creating bespoke custom-made garments for 6 years, he has had an array of amazing experiences within the fashion and costume world. This includes creating bespoke costumes for modern dance productions, short films and television series as well as on-going costume collaborations with participants of the London Ballroom Scene.
At one of London’s balls we attended, Benjamin Milan’s fashion ball ‘The Met Ball’ in 2019, Abdul entered a category called “Designers Delight“. The category asked to take inspiration from the 2018 Met Gala theme ‘Heavenly Bodies - Fashion and the Catholic Imagination.’ Designers Delight is one of many categories that take place in Ballroom; where craftsmanship and the ability to interpret any given theme effectively is judged by a panel and scored against other exciting and innovative competitors.
Depicting the icons on ‘stain-glass’ like a church would their saints; each window is positioned to carousel around an imposing dome of a skirt made of crisp taffeta. The button up bodice complete with clerical collar is styled like that of a catholic priest’s cassock. The low back frames the elegant neck, shoulder blades and spine belonging to Abdul’s model and muse; Omar Jordan Phillips @discoverbambam - all fastened with brass latches to emphasise the gorgeous architecture and beautiful interiors of a Catholic church.
Despite not winning a trophy that night, Abdul’s dress stunned every singe audience member as Omar pumped down the runway with a dress showcasing love and respect for a handful of New York Ballroom icons; the pioneering Willi Ninja, the sharp Pepper La Beija, the breathtakingly beautiful Octavia St Laurent and the philosophical and glamourous Dorian Corey.
QPOC and LGBTQ+ Ballroom culture has evolved through the decades in an effort to build community and highlight the issues QPOC and LGBTQ+ people face day to day. This entry into Designers Delight was an effort to not only recognise the history of Ballroom legends but also express gratitude to contemporary Ballroom participants who have wholeheartedly welcomed Abdul into the scene with open arms.
Abdul never had pictures taken of this dress other than at the ball, and so came to me to shoot it in full glory. Together with my house sister Omar Jordan Phillips (who goes by Bam Bam Revlon in the scene) who is a movement artist and projects producer outside of the ballroom, and another ballroom member, Christopher Kirubi, the make-up artist, we came together on this one.
Abdu tells me: "I have been creating since childhood really, always collecting and cutting little things since forever. Art and design have been the focus of my education and free time. I've always been consumed by it and have been creating original garments and pieces for about 6 years. Through that time, I've had numerous experiences and what's clear is my love of bespoke and couture.
When I discovered the Ballroom scene via a close friend my creativity ignited! I had found so many incredibly talented, creative and motivated people to collaborate with. The Heavenly Bodies dress was not only inspired by Ballroom legends but also my model and muse Bam Bam (Omar Jordan Phillips). Celine is another amazing talent who has captured so many Ballroom participant's work so beautifully and I am very pleased with the results of this beautiful shoot!“
Resources, charities and funds to donate to: https://linktr.ee/celeesi
Credits
Fashion & Design: Atelier Abdul
Photography and Creative Direction: Celine Fortenbacher / @celineforten
Model: Omar Jordan Phillips / @discoverbambam
Make-up artist: Christopher Kirubi
